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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.